New 125g Setup

[jabuc]

Hello All!!

I started a new thread because I don't want to thread hijack :)

I currently have a 125g central american cichlid tank setup, it's been up for 5 years. I wanting to change it over to a discus tank. I've been doing a lot of research over the years but I just haven't had the guts to buy discus...but now I am going for it :D

I currently have 2 Rena XP3 canisters one on each side with 2 Jaber 150w heaters.

My tap water is right 7.0...I use an RO unit to fill my 50g holding barrel for my water change water.

Here are my questions:

1. Should I strip out the sand and rock go barebottom with driftwood and java fern?

2. Would I be okay going with 5 or 6 juvies?

3. What filter media should i use in my canister filters? I know to stay away from carbon...what do most people put in for media?

4. Should I use straight tap water conditioned with Prime? If so how do you control the phosphates from the tap water? Florida water is super heavy and can be a algea nightmare if not kept in check.

Thank you all for your help! I look forward to this adventure :D

[Eddie]

I currently have a 125g central american cichlid tank setup, it's been up for 5 years. I wanting to change it over to a discus tank. I've been doing a lot of research over the years but I just haven't had the guts to buy discus...but now I am going for it :D I'd actually recommend breaking everything down completely and stripping/sterilizing everything.

I currently have 2 Rena XP3 canisters one on each side with 2 Jaber 150w heaters. That is good filtration for the tank, might benefit from using prefilters on the inlets.

My tap water is right 7.0...I use an RO unit to fill my 50g holding barrel for my water change water. I'd use straight tap and use the holding barrel to age your tap.

Here are my questions:

1. Should I strip out the sand and rock go barebottom with driftwood and java fern? Go barebottom with driftwood and java fern.

2. Would I be okay going with 5 or 6 juvies? I'd get large juveniles 3.5" or sub-adults 4.5-5" to begin with and 6 fish as a minimum.

3. What filter media should i use in my canister filters? I know to stay away from carbon...what do most people put in for media? Just use sponges and porous rocks or noodles.

4. Should I use straight tap water conditioned with Prime? If so how do you control the phosphates from the tap water? Florida water is super heavy and can be a algea nightmare if not kept in check. Straight tap and condition with SAFE (powder form of Prime). If you are having algae issues, maybe a UV sterilizer would be good. I never dealt with phosphates and I've read of others controlling algae by adding UV.

Thank you all for your help! I look forward to this adventure :D

Anything to help you succeed.


Eddie

[DonMD]

I'd second what Eddie recommends. I have a 125 gallon setup, two canister filters, some wood and sand. I had totally emptied it two months ago, sterilized with clorox, boiled all bio filter media, bought new sponge filters, sterilized all nets and tools, and am now doing a fishless cycle.

All this, so that when I do get my new fish, there will be no pathogens (I hope) in the setup. It's a lot of work, but not as much as if you unintentionally infect your new discus and spend much money and years trying to clean up your fish with meds.

[Jhhnn]

Welcome. You can't go wrong following Eddie's excellent advice, above.

Obtaining healthy stock from one of our sponsors in the smartest move you can make. It's probably smart to go for one of the lower priced varieties the first time around. You'll get bigger fish for your money, and they're all beautiful...

Be prepared to feed growing fish very heavily, and to change a lot of water.

[Eddie]

Obtaining healthy stock from one of our sponsors in the smartest move you can make. It's probably smart to go for one of the lower priced varieties the first time around. You'll get bigger fish for your money, and they're all beautiful...


This is probably the most important aspect in deciding to keep discus aside from knowing your water. Getting quality/healthy stock is literally half the battle. Great advice!


Eddie

[tbone83]

get rid of uv it destroys all bacteria inc good,
if u want plants then prepare to pay, u need substrate heating, good fert substrate eg,ada for a 125 gallon it will be about $800u.s then complete co2 system with mag valves and controller that alone from dupla is about $1000 u.s and then lighting witch is up to $6000 for the latest 250w hallides with sunrise-sunset simulation
but thats all top of the range qualilty, i am developing an all in one system with sun sim tech for about $2500 u.s for a 90 gallon, that includes polished glass with black silicon, matt black mdf stand with stainless shadowlines, soft close hinges,handleless tip on doors,full auto top up acyrilic water storage, 1600ltr'hr canister with seachem media and seperate fluval 101 chem canister with surface skimmer ectt.. and a inline 300w heater that also runs through the substrate, sunsim compact lamps and 208watts of t5 double reflected custom canopy and complete co2 system- reg,mag valve,inline reactor with 2ltr alloy bottle, plus more!!!! ive built a proto that cost me about $1200 retail with out labour ill be posting some pics soon that will blow redsea and ada systems away for less than a quarter of the price:-)

[hedut]

get rid of uv it destroys all bacteria inc good,
if u want plants then prepare to pay, u need substrate heating, good fert substrate eg,ada for a 125 gallon it will be about $800u.s then complete co2 system with mag valves and controller that alone from dupla is about $1000 u.s and then lighting witch is up to $6000 for the latest 250w hallides with sunrise-sunset simulation
but thats all top of the range qualilty, i am developing an all in one system with sun sim tech for about $2500 u.s for a 90 gallon, that includes polished glass with black silicon, matt black mdf stand with stainless shadowlines, soft close hinges,handleless tip on doors,full auto top up acyrilic water storage, 1600ltr'hr canister with seachem media and seperate fluval 101 chem canister with surface skimmer ectt.. and a inline 300w heater that also runs through the substrate, sunsim compact lamps and 208watts of t5 double reflected custom canopy and complete co2 system- reg,mag valve,inline reactor with 2ltr alloy bottle, plus more!!!! ive built a proto that cost me about $1200 retail with out labour ill be posting some pics soon that will blow redsea and ada systems away for less than a quarter of the price:-)

Cheap one put all together and fill with water any put some PP but make sure your heater on for those live in winter :)

[Frankr409]

No need to get rid of the substrate, pea gravel would be ideal and is very easy to clean. BB tanks are an eyesore.

Keep the UV it kills the bad guys, and has no affect whatsoever on beneficial bacteria in your bio-filter.

[leeishom]

Yes.
Add sponge pre-filters on the intakes.
+ that you added 2 heating units.
A UV system, does not in any way kill BB. Unless, the unit is exposed next to the filter media; in that case, this will never happen. UV does not kill nitrates nor ammonia, so the filter media and BB can do it's thing.

[cgronko]

yess sponge filter for sure