Discus egg fungus, difference of medications?

[SeaDragon]

I've been reading the different posts through out the forum and I've read that most people recommend MB. But I was wondering what the difference was between using MB, Maroxy, Formalin, Prazi, or Acriflavin. I was hopping someone could tell me the difference and which you have the most luck with keeping fungus off the eggs. Id prefer to not use MB because I don't want to stain my sealant, but whatever works best is what Im most worried about.

[TURQ64]

I've only used MB and Maroxy. I've been using those two for decades, and find them both about the same at what they do. The only differences I see is the discoloration from MB, whereas Maroxy doesn't stain anything. Not that the slight blue bothers anything. That said, neither are any type of 'miracle', they just keep the percentages down of fungus affected eggs...No cure-all for dirty water; just a safety measure IMO

[William Palumbo]

I never tried Maroxy, but as I have said before, I went back and forth using a preventative, and I never saw much difference in hatch rates. Usually, if the egg is fertile, it will not fungus. A dead egg will. Even when fungus spreads to good eggs, I never see the good eggs just go bad because of it. And I have had fry hatch out into/under "cotton balls" of fungus...Bill

[SeaDragon]

Yea I always have the clutch break out in fungus about 18hrs after they're laid, I'm going to try with this batch to do a WC while their fanning over the eggs. I've tried the Maroxy, but with a 55gal and a 90gal I'm hoping to find someone who sells it in a larger bottle then the first bottle I got that only had 2oz.

[William Palumbo]

Yea, a 55 and 90 are big. I keep my pairs in 20H's. Right now I use Formalin off and on, but as stated earlier...I see no difference...Bill

[SeaDragon]

Yea, a 55 and 90 are big. I keep my pairs in 20H's. Right now I use Formalin off and on, but as stated earlier...I see no difference...Bill

I have one pair in the 55gal as my hopes were to get them breeding then just remove the parents and leave the fry to grow out after the 2-3weeks of them feeding from the parents, defiantly finding from a fungi problem point of view that this is just too big to medicate well. I'm guessing i'll end up moving them to my 20gal that I'm not using and just raise the fry in the 55 when the time needs be. As for the other pair in the 90gal, i was just just covering up the eggs to see if i could get anything to work out, but was focusing on working with the Leopard pair in the 55gal... Julia

[jimg]

I never tried Maroxy, but as I have said before, I went back and forth using a preventative, and I never saw much difference in hatch rates. Usually, if the egg is fertile, it will not fungus. A dead egg will. Even when fungus spreads to good eggs, I never see the good eggs just go bad because of it. And I have had fry hatch out into/under "cotton balls" of fungus...Bill

+1 same here

[SeaDragon]

That said, neither are any type of 'miracle', they just keep the percentages down of fungus affected eggs...No cure-all for dirty water; just a safety measure IMO

Thanks guys I'm going to try doing some more WC to see if it's my water quality before I start doseing them with medications. Lost both the spawnings to the fungi, im not completely sure if I'm looking at them right, they always loom like their growing then the fungi grows and the never hatch. First step I'm going to try is some WC's

[TURQ64]

After re-reading all of this, I see no mention of any wigglers..Are we sure this is a heterosexual pair?? Seems as tho' there'd be a few to indicate fertility....The eggs should look clear, then darker, not lighter, then wigglers..

[SeaDragon]

After re-reading all of this, I see no mention of any wigglers..Are we sure this is a heterosexual pair?? Seems as tho' there'd be a few to indicate fertility....The eggs should look clear, then darker, not lighter, then wigglers..
They've had wigglers in the past, but only a very few times, they lay them as the orange-ish, then they turn white, by that point they've ether eaten them their selfs if I hadn't covered them, or they just continue to grow fungi and nothing happens. I looked at the last group of eggs under our microscope and on the day they were supposed to hatch they were just unfertilized eggs. The weird thing is that the lay them, then some seem to "grow" and get bigger but they turn white and don't do anything, while the ones that didn't "grow" disappear in-between the ones that did, never to be seen from again.

[William Palumbo]

I know Discus eggs, depending on the TDS can absorb water. Tho I am not sure if that happens in too low a TDS or too high...Bill...OK...Just checked...if the water is too low in minerals, the eggs will absorb too much water, and can actually burst. Too high a TDS, and the eggs loose fluid and shrink. What is you hardness/TDS?

[SeaDragon]

I know Discus eggs, depending on the TDS can absorb water. Tho I am not sure if that happens in too low a TDS or too high...Bill...OK...Just checked...if the water is too low in minerals, the eggs will absorb too much water, and can actually burst. Too high a TDS, and the eggs loose fluid and shrink. What is you hardness/TDS?

I actually have no way of testing my TDS right now, and i'm actually not sure how to. but my KH is 107.4ppm and GH is 161.1ppm

[William Palumbo]

Numbers are high. You will need RO to get some better hatchrates...Bill

[SeaDragon]

Numbers are high. You will need RO to get some better hatchrates...Bill

That'd be awesome to try if I could get one, our home RO only puts out 5gals a day, and my family might be a lil mad if I took all the circulated water from the line going to the fridge. Thanks for the suggestion though, they're always welcomed.

[TURQ64]

you could supplement the line to the fridge with the RO reject; then all would be happy...

[SeaDragon]

you could supplement the line to the fridge with the RO reject; then all would be happy...

that might be possible, thanks for the suggestion. Im hoping i can finally get a group to hatch here soon!