Clean the tank

[rdub]

I have had some issues with my discus (you can read "voltage" thread) and would like to clean my tank, filter, heater etc so there aren't any remnants of disease or fungus for any new fish.

60 gallon tank, 2 AquaClear filters, 2 heaters.

What is the best way to accomplish this task?

[Sameen]

do u want to break the tank apart and start over or want to clean it and keep it established?

[Eddie]

Water and bleach

[Darrell Ward]

Yep, throw everything in the tank, add bleach, soak, drain, rinse, drain, and let everything dry completely. You are then good to go.

[rdub]

Thanks. Do I need a minimum amount of bleach or just pour?

Trow out all of the filter media?

[Darrell Ward]

1 cup should be enough for a 60 gal. New media will make it easier for sure, since AC don't really hold that much.

[Ed13]

For disinfection using ~6% bleach in your 60 gallon tank you'll need roughly 2/3 to a gallon for 1 hr. Use less, it'll need more contact time. The more organics there are in the tank, the stronger the solution needs to be. Of course, knowing what you want to kill would make it easier to know the correct solution.

[rdub]

Thanks. Narrowing down the problem would have allowed me to treat it as well. Hopefully there won't be a next time.

[rdub]

Once I clean with the bleach and water, how long after I add new filter media can I add new fish?

[ericatdallas]

Once I clean with the bleach and water, how long after I add new filter media can I add new fish?

To be safe, maybe you should do some research of fishless cycling...

Seeing the heartache of a lot of dead fish, the lighter wallet, and the pain of completely cleaning your tank, why do one of the most important parts half-way. I think the usual wait is weeks, but you might be able to speed it up with some of the solutions pet stores sell (I've never used these and personally think they're a waste but a lot of people have success with them).

Do you have a good test kit? Spend a little money and buy a full test kit, but at least get tests for ammonia, nitrate, nitrites, and phosphates.

[rdub]

I thought I had purchase one of the best but the numbers never changed. 90% water changes didn't change them nor did conditioners and ammonia remover.

No one seemed to be able to tell me what was happening. It was suggested by a consultant at Kordon that the test kits were useless. I returned it to the store.

[ericatdallas]

What did you buy?

I use API test kits and I've made several readings before WC and after-WC and they change. Last week when I didn't change the water for 3.5 days it read 2ppm ammonia before WC but after a ~70% WC it read 1ppm (theoretically it should read 0.6ppm but who can tell the exact shade of colors anyway?). You can't really get precision or accuracy out of a cheap test like that but it gives you a range. Same result with nitrates.

Not sure what's with your test though. Have you tested the water out of your tap? I had doubts about my test too so I tested my aquarium and got readings and out of the tap it was 0/0/0 (which confirmed or was confirmed by the city water report).

[rdub]

I also tested the tap directly and it read pretty much like yours. Test the tank and then test the tap water. Test the tank and then test the tap water again. That is one reason I couldn't figure out why my testing of the tank didn't change even with massive water changes.

I'm willing to basically start over. Not much choice.

[rdub]

I would like to use a new AquaClear power filter. Would it help to add a sponge filter from a healthy tank as well?