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View Full Version : Problem with the wigglers or is it the female?



halawani
08-16-2011, 05:22 PM
Hi,

This is kind of a new problem to me :)

I have 3 pairs of discus and I am breading them successfully (thanks to all the good information and advice I got from simply discus forum). During the past month, 2 of my pairs did just fine and are giving me 1 spawn every month but the third pair started producing week fray.

This pair produced 3 good batches of fray In the past 2 months and the fray are doing well but now the pair lay about 100 to 150 eggs and 3 days after the eggs hatch the wigglers simply dye before going into the free swimming stage!

I paired the female with 2 other males with the same result. I even removed the female from the tank after 1 hour of spawning just to make sure that she is not hurting the fray. So I am guessing the female is sick but don't know what is wrong with her.

The strange thing about this female is that she lays eggs once every 7 days (give or take a day) even if she is in a tank on her own (no male present) and even if non of the parameters change. Could she be tired of laying eggs so frequently? or is she sick? Can any one please help me out here?


Parameters:
Temp = 29 C
Ammonia = 0
PH = 7.5
TDS = 90 PPM
chlorine = 0 (filtered water)
I do daily 20% water changes (aged water with the same parameters)
I clean my pairs before each spawn with PP and metro.

Thanks for you help in advance :)

nc0gnet0
08-16-2011, 06:14 PM
I have had this issue with one of my females before. The issue is bacterial related, first, clean and disinfect the tank. What I did try succesfully was to perform a large water change just prior to them spawning (or as close as possible). After the eggs are laid, add one teaspoon of kanamycin to the tank and continue this once a day after water a change of greater than 50%, until after the fry have been attached for 3-4 days. Entire process whould be about 7 days. I also did try the same thing using H202 with limited success , but wouldn't recomend that without constant monitoring of your ammonia levels (it can be rough on your bio).

Rick

roundfishross
08-16-2011, 06:29 PM
I have had this issue with one of my females before. The issue is bacterial related, first, clean and disinfect the tank. What I did try succesfully was to perform a large water change just prior to them spawning (or as close as possible). After the eggs are laid, add one teaspoon of kanamycin to the tank and continue this once a day after water a change of greater than 50%, until after the fry have been attached for 3-4 days. Entire process whould be about 7 days. I also did try the same thing using H202 with limited success , but wouldn't recomend that without constant monitoring of your ammonia levels (it can be rough on your bio).

Rick

agreed! also on a side note this can be caused by lack of nutirition in thier diet

halawani
08-17-2011, 03:11 AM
I have had this issue with one of my females before. The issue is bacterial related, first, clean and disinfect the tank. What I did try succesfully was to perform a large water change just prior to them spawning (or as close as possible). After the eggs are laid, add one teaspoon of kanamycin to the tank and continue this once a day after water a change of greater than 50%, until after the fry have been attached for 3-4 days. Entire process whould be about 7 days. I also did try the same thing using H202 with limited success , but wouldn't recomend that without constant monitoring of your ammonia levels (it can be rough on your bio).

Rick

Thanks for your reply. Now that was fast :)

I thought PP should take care of all the parasites and bacteria. Isn't that correct? I also use methylene blue on the eggs and I do a 90% water change few hours before the eggs hatch. I thought that methylene blue should also take care of the bacteria. Isn't that correct?

I am not familiar with "kanamycin" can you please tell me what is the active ingredient in it? thanks

halawani
08-17-2011, 03:24 AM
agreed! also on a side note this can be caused by lack of nutirition in thier diet

Thanks for the note.

My veal heart recipe:

800 grams veal heart
800 grams veal liver
800 grams white fish filet
800 grams pealed shrimp
50 grams of Krill (whole)
100 grams carrots
100 grams pees
100 grams spinach
2 bananas
2 table spoons of Spirulina Powder
2 table spoons of paprika
3 tablets of vitamins
100 grams of grind fish food
100 grams of oat meal
10 grams of agar

I also feed them blood worms twice a week

what am I missing?

TURQ64
08-17-2011, 08:23 AM
did I read correctly that the fish lays eggs every week, and you PP between spawns?..seems like a heck of a lot of PP in their lives... Active ingredient in Kanamycin is Kanamycin Sulfate, a relatively stable antibiotic....Gary

halawani
08-17-2011, 03:17 PM
did I read correctly that the fish lays eggs every week, and you PP between spawns?..seems like a heck of a lot of PP in their lives... Active ingredient in Kanamycin is Kanamycin Sulfate, a relatively stable antibiotic....Gary

yup, I clean all my breeders once a month and I change the parameters after cleaning them. within the next day or 2 they lay eggs. This fish I clean her only once a month but she lays eggs unexpectedly so I dont clean her every time.

Thanks for the "Kanamycin Sulfate" Ill look for it and use your advice. Ill keep you posted on the results:)

by the way do you use it every time or is it a one time treatment till she gets better?

Thanks :)

nc0gnet0
08-17-2011, 03:38 PM
I am not treating the female per say, rather, I am lowering the bacteria in the water for a time until the fry can develope enough of an immune system to deal with it on thier own. While I can't be sure, I beleive some fry are born weaker than others, and the issue is genetics, not neccesarily a diseased female. Once they start actively feeding from the slime coat of their parents they seem to be able to survive just fine. I don't do this with every spawn, just the few that I have had issues with like your dealing with.

Rick