hon
07-02-2012, 11:48 PM
Dear all,
I am new to this forum and this is my first question.
I am designing a matrix of tanks arranged in tiers. The top and middle tiers each have 5 x 30g (2 feet long) tanks. The bottom level has two 4-foot (60g) tanks.
I plan to use the top two levels for fish with bare bottom and a sponge filter in each tank. The tanks at the bottom levels are reserved for sump/water storage etc.
I have still not decided what is the best water change regime and filtration system for this set up.
I have two 100g barrels in the same room which I can use for water aging/heating and conditioning.
I also have two 1 cubic meter tanks (about 250g) outside of the house for extra storage but is not heated.
My plan is to keep wild heckels and would like to simulate the black water quality by peat filtration and achieve a target pH of 5.5. Water is very soft in my area.
My water change schedule is planned to be about 1/2 tank volume everyday.
All my tanks have overflow tube (hole drilled on the bottom).
Here is my questions:
Should I arrange the tanks in a one big system? i.e. all overflows flow back to the bottom tanks and pump back up? I can install valves so that each tank can be isolated from the system if needed for medication.
The merit of this is of course the stability of the water quality and ease of water change. But I also understand the risk of spread of disease.
If I use this set up should I run canister filters with inlets and outlets from and to the bottom tanks only? I am thinking of this so that the water flow from filters will not be too great into each fish tank. The water flow into each tanks is controlled by submersible pumps in the bottom tanks. I will not convert the sump tanks into a compartment filter sump. They are used just for buffer and new water is added to these bottom tank iso the fish tanks directly. I will use heaters in the bottom tanks only. Should I use cannister filter at all or if the sponge filters in each tank enough with 1/2 tank water change each day?v Or I can even get away with sponge filters in the fish tank and rely on the cannister filters in the bottom tanks to do the job?
Or I can arrange the tanks isolated with the overflows dumping the water outside. The bottom tanks are for conditioning and heating only. And when water is changed, I just siphon out the waste from each tank and pump water from the bottom tanks to the fish tanks. The merit is each tank is isolated and less risk of spread of disease and each tank can be run with slight temperature difference. But I need heaters in each tank and the water quality will not be as stable as the first setup. Will the sponge filter only enough with 1/2 tank daily water change?
Thank you for your time.
Best regards,
hon from Hong Kong
I am new to this forum and this is my first question.
I am designing a matrix of tanks arranged in tiers. The top and middle tiers each have 5 x 30g (2 feet long) tanks. The bottom level has two 4-foot (60g) tanks.
I plan to use the top two levels for fish with bare bottom and a sponge filter in each tank. The tanks at the bottom levels are reserved for sump/water storage etc.
I have still not decided what is the best water change regime and filtration system for this set up.
I have two 100g barrels in the same room which I can use for water aging/heating and conditioning.
I also have two 1 cubic meter tanks (about 250g) outside of the house for extra storage but is not heated.
My plan is to keep wild heckels and would like to simulate the black water quality by peat filtration and achieve a target pH of 5.5. Water is very soft in my area.
My water change schedule is planned to be about 1/2 tank volume everyday.
All my tanks have overflow tube (hole drilled on the bottom).
Here is my questions:
Should I arrange the tanks in a one big system? i.e. all overflows flow back to the bottom tanks and pump back up? I can install valves so that each tank can be isolated from the system if needed for medication.
The merit of this is of course the stability of the water quality and ease of water change. But I also understand the risk of spread of disease.
If I use this set up should I run canister filters with inlets and outlets from and to the bottom tanks only? I am thinking of this so that the water flow from filters will not be too great into each fish tank. The water flow into each tanks is controlled by submersible pumps in the bottom tanks. I will not convert the sump tanks into a compartment filter sump. They are used just for buffer and new water is added to these bottom tank iso the fish tanks directly. I will use heaters in the bottom tanks only. Should I use cannister filter at all or if the sponge filters in each tank enough with 1/2 tank water change each day?v Or I can even get away with sponge filters in the fish tank and rely on the cannister filters in the bottom tanks to do the job?
Or I can arrange the tanks isolated with the overflows dumping the water outside. The bottom tanks are for conditioning and heating only. And when water is changed, I just siphon out the waste from each tank and pump water from the bottom tanks to the fish tanks. The merit is each tank is isolated and less risk of spread of disease and each tank can be run with slight temperature difference. But I need heaters in each tank and the water quality will not be as stable as the first setup. Will the sponge filter only enough with 1/2 tank daily water change?
Thank you for your time.
Best regards,
hon from Hong Kong