fungused at the last Stage ????? why???

[nabilbb]

Hi Everyone,

Here is the story,
The pair of Discus I have spawed, one hour after the process is done I put methylene blue and everything looked fine. The pair were taking care of the eggs this was friday.

Sunday night I did WC about 40-45% I didn't want to go lower so the eggs wont be exposed, again everything looked fine and I can see they are about to hatch

Monday Morning, before I go to work everything was fine and they were starting to hatch (I was about to call in Sich)

anyways, I went to work, at the end of the day when I came home everything was fungused

What hapened? What did I do wrong?

Thank you

[Longhorn2750]

Did you remember to retreat the water with methylene blue after you changed the water? I have had it happen in the past as well, everything looks fine when you leave for work and then it its gone bad when you get home. Sorry, better luck on the next spawn.

[DiscusLoverJeff]

What was your meth dosage that you used (drops per gal)?

[nabilbb]

Did you remember to retreat the water with methylene blue after you changed the water? I have had it happen in the past as well, everything looks fine when you leave for work and then it its gone bad when you get home. Sorry, better luck on the next spawn.

No I didn't treat with MB after the water change.
if I change 40% do i treat only 40% or the whole tank amount?

[nabilbb]

What was your meth dosage that you used (drops per gal)?

I used the recomended dosage on the bottle I don't remember it now

[Longhorn2750]

I only retreat for the water that I have changed, too much methylene can burn your fish.

[Brent1972]

And knock your filters out.

[limige]

MB is typically used when you seperate the eggs in their own tank. as mentioned it fries your filters. check the bottle for dosage to prevent fungus and dosage for fish illness treatment. the pair should take care of the eggs and prevent fungus, if they don't you may want to pull them and try MB in a small tank and see if they were viable eggs. could be they were bad eggs.

[nabilbb]

MB is typically used when you seperate the eggs in their own tank. as mentioned it fries your filters. check the bottle for dosage to prevent fungus and dosage for fish illness treatment. the pair should take care of the eggs and prevent fungus, if they don't you may want to pull them and try MB in a small tank and see if they were viable eggs. could be they were bad eggs.

They were not bad eggs because i saw them hatching in the morning before i go to work.

[limige]

sounds to me like the parents ate the wigglers and the bad eggs/hatched eggs began to fungus. usually the parents will move them if it starts to get that way do you have another place they could move them to or did they lay on the stand pipe and thats all you had in there?

[nabilbb]

sounds to me like the parents ate the wigglers and the bad eggs/hatched eggs began to fungus. usually the parents will move them if it starts to get that way do you have another place they could move them to or did they lay on the stand pipe and thats all you had in there?

Yeh, That it I have only the breeding cone and sponge filter in there

[Longhorn2750]

My pairs seem to favor the sponge filter tube over the cone as a spawning site. Adding a second cone is an option

[limige]

Mine used to move them to the sponge after they hatched on the stand tube.
See what happens next time. But I wouldn't suggest used MB unless you pull the eggs.

[nabilbb]

I think most people here use MB!! am i right? that's how I got to know it

[ref0716]

I use MB only when pulling the eggs when you just gotta have babies and the pair will not parent raise. A good pair that will parent raise do not need MB. They will by instinct remove unfertilized eggs before they fungus. Fertilized eggs do not fungus, in my experience. HTH.
Richard

[John_Nicholson]

Not everyone. Healthy live eggs do not fungus so no need for MB most of the time.

-john

[james1234]

Mb is a waste of time imo.
No w/cs or feeding up until the eggs hatch is the best way imo. Cleaning and doing w/cs will increase the likelihood of fungusing eggs

[nabilbb]

Mb is a waste of time imo.
No w/cs or feeding up until the eggs hatch is the best way imo. Cleaning and doing w/cs will increase the likelihood of fungusing eggs

Thanks James
what is imo?

[Brent1972]

Thanks James
what is imo?

In My Opinion .

[John_Nicholson]

I have always continued feeding and have also always continued my WC's.

-john

[nc0gnet0]

healthy eggs will not fungus this is true. However, meth blue does help keep the eggs viable in moderatly hard water. I have had more than enough hatches now to conclusively say that my hatch rate is always consistantly higher when using meth blue, in MY water. However, I have recently run across a study that links prolongedf use of meth blue after that hatch to a failure of the swim bladder to inflate, thus causing a higher incidence of belly sliders.

Rick

[james1234]

I cut out w/cs and feeding as the slightest quick change in water conditions can kill fertilized eggs, and unless your adding water with near exact same params it will almost certainly kill off a few eggs, i get a very high hatch rate since stopping the w/cs.
Meth blue can also knock the filter, so imo not worth adding

[BobDaniel]

This was the method that worked for me: I would clean my tank, squeeze out the sponge filter then do a big water change before I expected the pair to spawn. I would refill the tank then hit it with a System 1 diatom filter for about an hour. This way, if the fish spawned, the tank was as as clean as humanly possible. I would use a 1/4 diameter tube and hose and keep the poop cleaned off the bottom of the tank. I'd just replace the gallon or so of water I lost in cleaning. No big water changes until the babies were eating newly hatched brine shrinp, then increase water changes a bit at a time so they get used to the idea.

I also tracked pH, Conductivity, and temp. I found each of my pairs seemed to like slightly different water conditions. Go with what works.

If I started losing babies -a few a day, I treated for gill flukes. I would use formaldyhide at 2 to 3 drops a gallon. Make sure there is no sediment at the bottom of the medicine and keep it in a dark place. I also found Flubenol 5% good. I would use a knifetip in 25 gallons. Be careful with this and don't OD your fish.