MinnFinn treatment and Flukes

[paultrout]

Thanks Paul. That sounds very encouraging. If that holds true for discus tanks as well, it would be well worth having to buy it in the pond size bottle.

Kacey

P.S. I sent the e-mail to: info@aquafinn.net

My e-mail is paultrout at aquasolver dot com. I put it like this so i does not get skimmed by prowlers.

[paultrout]

ah i see. That would be the only reason for me not using it in my situation but if i still had my BB setup i will definitely use it

There is more of an effect on the fllter with the second treatment so it is best to shut the pump and filter off for the second 1 hour treatment. The first will have got anything in the filter the first time. Are you seeing the nitrite spike with the first treatment? This is one of the reasons flukes are hard to get. The concentration to get the flukes is also hard on the filter. The more organics in the filer the more protected it will be from the MinnFinn.

[DonMD]

Hi Don,
Add around 4 tbsp/10gal while there is nitrite in the tank. It helps the fish deal with the nitrite which would otherwise be very hard on them.

Kacey

Thanks, Kacey. I often dose salt at 1 TBS/10 gallon to ease split fins, and such, and have been doing that, but not the last few days. Today the nitrite when I got home from work was less than 0.25ppm, so I did another 75 gallons in the 125, and they are all going bonkers pairing up and laying eggs all over!

Of the 11 fish in there, 8 have paired and are either laying, or are dancing. Hah!

You're recommending 4X the dose I usually use -- it's seems excessive ? ? ?

For now, I think I'll just let the cycling take its course. I'm just about there I think.

Thanks for your input!

[kaceyo]

Hey Don,
Sounds like everyone is happy there and that's what counts. I recommended more than the norm due to the nitrite. Salt counteracts the toxic effect of nitrite. You can actually go as high as 1 tbsp per gallon for a bath treatment if you want the level of salt to be high enough to kill parasites. Discus take it in stride.

Kacey

Thanks, Kacey. I often dose salt at 1 TBS/10 gallon to ease split fins, and such, and have been doing that, but not the last few days. Today the nitrite when I got home from work was less than 0.25ppm, so I did another 75 gallons in the 125, and they are all going bonkers pairing up and laying eggs all over!

Of the 11 fish in there, 8 have paired and are either laying, or are dancing. Hah!

You're recommending 4X the dose I usually use -- it's seems excessive ? ? ?

For now, I think I'll just let the cycling take its course. I'm just about there I think.

Thanks for your input!

[joanr]

So, Don & Philip, did the Minnfinn keep the tanks/fish free of flukes? Update please...this sounded so promising I'd like to hear results after so many months.

[nc0gnet0]

Interesting thread, I am glad is was brought to the top. This caught my eye:

The more organics in the filer the more protected it will be from the MinnFinn.

Of note, then any fluke/eggs in said filter would be protected to a degree as well. That is if its mode of action is as an oxidizer which I am assuming it is. Hydogen peroxide is an oxidizer much like PP only a good degree weaker. Not sure about the Peracetic Acid, and I am assuming this is where the treatment gets it kick. Any oxidizer will knock back your bio, the degree of which is determined by the amount of organic material in the filter. It's a bit of a catch 22, with an oxidizer, if you DON'T see any dieback in your filter, it is a good indication that much of the oxidizer was spent oxidizing organics in the filter itself.

The more and more I think about it, it seems that those of us with multiple tanks etc, might be better suited to have a tank dedicated for cycling a few sponge filters via the fishless method, on hand and at the ready. That way when we do the treatments we can just plop in in some new (parasite free) filters and not skip a beat.

[DonMD]

So, Don & Philip, did the Minnfinn keep the tanks/fish free of flukes? Update please...this sounded so promising I'd like to hear results after so many months.

Sorry to say, the flukes returned. They are very resilient.

[nc0gnet0]

Don, can i ask, what type of filtration do you use and do you have a substrate or bare bottom tank? Scratch that I see you have a sand bottom tank.

[joanr]

Sorry to say, the flukes returned. They are very resilient.

Too bad, even after the third treatment? Maybe turn some attention on the De-Los treament, Have you tried that med yet? Anyone?

[joanr]

Interesting thread, I am glad is was brought to the top. This caught my eye:



Of note, then any fluke/eggs in said filter would be protected to a degree as well. That is if its mode of action is as an oxidizer which I am assuming it is. Hydogen peroxide is an oxidizer much like PP only a good degree weaker. Not sure about the Peracetic Acid, and I am assuming this is where the treatment gets it kick. Any oxidizer will knock back your bio, the degree of which is determined by the amount of organic material in the filter. It's a bit of a catch 22, with an oxidizer, if you DON'T see any dieback in your filter, it is a good indication that much of the oxidizer was spent oxidizing organics in the filter itself.

The more and more I think about it, it seems that those of us with multiple tanks etc, might be better suited to have a tank dedicated for cycling a few sponge filters via the fishless method, on hand and at the ready. That way when we do the treatments we can just plop in in some new (parasite free) filters and not skip a beat.

Maybe treat fish in a sterile tank with just heat, new sponge filter ( no need for bio just do w/c every day )and air, nuke the trouble tank with alcohol and let air dry a few days and then return fish to their main tank with newly cycled media. Seems the only way to do this and might need to be done 2 or 3 times. I might order some De-Los but need some reviews of it first. I hate flukes!! They now seem resistant to even the trichloran and just laugh at the Prazi.

[nc0gnet0]

Contrary to popular belief, flukes cannot become resistant to oxidizers. Not unless the little buggers have mutated and grown bullet proof vests

The biggest pitfall of oxidizers are they are indescriminate and oxidize any organics they encounter, and in doing so they neutralize. So, if you have a sand or gravel substrate, or a canister filter with alot of organic buildup, any eggs/flukes that exist in these places have a level of protection. It's like there hiding behind a bullet proof vest.

Additionally, a fish's slime coat is organic as well, so the oxidizer must first strip this slime coat to get to the flukes. If you have a low concentration of salt in the tank, more than likely your fish has a thicker than normal slime coat, again working against you.

So, if you have a planted tank, and a canister filter, you really have alot working against you. If you have a bare bottom tank, and you can afford to lose your sponges (ie: you have a few clean cycled ones in reserve), your chances of success with an oxidizer are much greater.

[joanr]

Makes sense, what worries me is that even strong pesticides like Trichlorfon are not working, even when re-dosing to catch the hatchlings. The flukes are becoming resistant to most OTC treatments like Lifeguard, Clout and Paraguard. Going to look into the De-Los, they claim it kills the eggs but that remains to be seen.

[nc0gnet0]

I wonder if it is the hatching timeline we are seeing change, thus making our 2nd and third doses less effective.........

[kaceyo]

De-Los is Dylox, ie triclorfon. Trichlorfon will not kill eggs. I've heard people say that De-Los kills eggs and it claims to on the label, but in my experience it doesn't.

[nc0gnet0]

The only thing I know off reported to kill the eggs is supaverm, and I have never used it myself. While it is supposed to work great on koi, it kills goldfish 100%. As I have a few fancy goldfish in my pond as well, it was a no go.